Quality, novelty and price: the holy trinity of the lyonnais silk fabrics in the 18th century

Abstract: This paper explores the tension between quality and fashion by analysing the trade in Lyonnais silks in 18th-century Italy. The silks manufactured in the city of Lyon had the reputation of being the most fashionable fabrics due to their patterns being changed seasonally. These fast-paced novelties urged consumers to renew their clothes regularly, and in turn seek affordable textiles to sustain such consumption. In the midst of this, quality was put into question and seems to have become secondary. This contribution argues that, on the contrary, quality still held a central place in this trade and was considered as important as novelty and price. With the growing importance of fashionable patterns, expectations of consumers evolved, shifting from long-lasting properties to immediate visual qualities. With consumer demand focused on the quality of design, the Lyonnais manufacturers had to find a fragile equilibrium between quality, novelty and price-point.